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Where we learned about traditional Botswana culture
By Dave Bezaire
Meeting Kgosi Sechele III
Molepolole, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
Kgosi meeting in Mahalapye
Mahalapye, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
The Columbus Global Village Team strives to network on behalf of the local Habitat for Humanity staff and volunteers with local community leaders who might take more notice of a foreign team than of day-to-day affiliate operations. In both Molepolole and Mahalapye, this strategy proved both fascinating to those interested in culture and productive for Habitat.
Botswana has been ruled since 1966 by a modern, democratically-elected, multi-party, parliamentary government. Prior to that it was a British protectorate for almost 100 years after tribal leaders appealed to their European partner for assistance against incursions by other tribes and colonialists. Underlying that history are tribes which settled the area in the seventeen century, led by patrimony-based chiefs including the great Kgosi Sechele I who ruled for most of the nineteenth century. So it was both exciting and humbling when Kgosi Kgari Sechele—great-grandson of Sechele I, or Sechele III, and the current leader of the Bakwena people—agreed to a meeting between our Molepolole team and his 24-member ruling council. Similarly, our Mahalapye team met with Kgosi ???? and two of his top aides. These formal meetings were opportunities to state our mission and that of Habitat for Humanity Botswana, to be formally accepted into the community by the traditional leaders, and to begin some introductory dialogue. Susi invited the chiefs to share an evening meal and conversation with us, to visit the work site, and especially to join us for the house dedication ceremonies.
Kgosi for dinner
Molepolole, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
The real fun began at the dinners with various of the kgosi on subsequent nights. Kgosi means "chief" or "king" in Tswana, the native language of the Batswana, which is the name given to the people who live in this peaceful land. The kgosi, who retain significant formal and informal power alongside the municipal authorities, told many stories of authorizing land transfers and usage, settling minor disputes among neighbors, and being important participants in the election process of the formal government officials. Of course, the kgosi are also members of the community like everyone else, and being primarily farmers, we heard about raising cattle, struggles within European beef export markets, and frustrations with uncontrolled growth in their rural village.
The changing cultures were most apparent when our team gathered for an after-dinner chat with two older kgosi in Molepolole. We asked about typical rites of passage like births, weddings and deaths, and were rewarded with many stories that belie the importance of tradition among these proud people. We were also entertained by the familiar "young people today just don't measure up" type comments that seem so common from the older generation–regardless of country or culture. The head kgosi of Mahalapye spoke of succession concerns because his children–one a banker, the other a university professor–both live in Gaborone and are unwilling to return home to assume the position of chief when he dies. One can only wonder how many generations it will take for the traditional governance role of the kgosi to fade out.
Kgosi Sechele III at Dedication
Molepolole, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
Following a delightful evening of cultural exchange, Susi invited the head Kgosi to the house dedication scheduled for the team's last day in Molepolole. It thrilled the staff of the Habitat affiliate–which had already built 75 houses in town–to have the head Kgosi visit for the first time. Reporters from the two national newspapers even came from Gaborone to cover the big event! Kgosi Sechele talked at the dedication of his amazement that Habitat is building better houses than the government program for about half the cost, and he made a commitment to increase the support of Habitat by the all the Kgosi.
Kgosi waiting
Molepolole, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
Kgosi of Molepolole
Molepolole, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
Head Kgosi of Mahalapye
Mahalapye, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
Mahalapye Kgosi
Mahalapye, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire
Kgosi & Team
Mahalapye, Botswana
Photo by Dave Bezaire